Surfing is a water sport where a person rides a surfboard across the surface of the water. Surfing begins by a surfer eyeing a wave and then matching its speed by paddling lying on tops of the surfboard. When the wave begins to start to carry the surfer forward the person quickly proceeds to stand on top of the board and ride the momentum of the wave forward. The objective of the surfer is to stay ahead of the white water of the wave and to stay on top of the board itself while riding the wave.

Equipment

Surfing itself can be done on various types of boards such as surfboards, kneeboards, body boards and surf mats. Original boards were made out of wood and were very large and hard to handle. These types of boards were very common in the 1940's and 1950's. Current boards are made of polyurethane foam. Today there are three traditional types of boards surfers will use. The first is a long board at a length of 9-10 feet in length, the second is a short boards which is around 6-7 feet in length and a fun baord which is a board inbetween the long and short board. This final type of board allows the most manuverability between the first two boards. Other equipment used during surfing includes board shorts and a leash for maintaining control of the board. In cold weather many surfers may wear certain outfits to keep themselves warm. Outfits people may wear are wet suits, along with boots and hoods. These are most often woren to protect themselves against the frigid cold weather temperatures.

Surfing Terms

Regular foot - Right foot on back of board

Goofy foot - Left foot on back of board

Take off - the start of a ride

Drop in - dropping into (engaging) the wave, most often as part of standing up

Drop in on (or "cut off") - taking off on a wave in front of someone else (considered inappropriate)

Snaking - paddling around someone to get into the best position for a wave (in essence, stealing it)

Bottom turn - the first turn at the bottom of the wave

Shoulder - the unbroken part of the wave

Cutback - a turn cutting back toward the breaking part of the wave

Fade - on take off, aiming toward the breaking part of the wave, before turning sharply and surfing in the direction the wave is breaking towards

Over the falls - out of control, going over the front of the wave and wiping out

Pump - an up/down carving movement that generates speed along a wave

Stall - slowing down from weight on the tail of the board or a hand in the water

Floater - riding up on the top of the breaking part of the wave

Hang-five/hang-ten - putting five or ten toes respectively over the nose of a longboard

Re-entry - hitting the lip vertically and re-rentering the wave in quick succession.

Switch-foot - having equal ability to surf regular foot or goofy foot -- like being ambidextrous

Tube riding - riding inside the curl of a wave

Carve - turns (often accentuated)

Off the Top - a turn on the top of a wave, either sharp or carving

Snap - a quick, sharp turn off the top of a wave

Fins-free snap - a sharp turn where the fins slide off the top of the wave

Air/Aerial - riding the board briefly into the air above the wave, landing back upon the wave, and continuing to ride.

Notable Places to Surf

• Malibu
• G-Land
• Bells Beach
• Jeffreys Bay
• Puerto Escondido
• Gold Coast Superbank
• Teahupo'o
• Cape St. Francis
• Banzai Pipeline
• Mavericks (location)
• Trestles
• Rincon